How to Care for Antique Jewellery

Antique jewellery has already survived longer than most things people own. Keep it thriving with a little knowledge and almost no effort — here is the complete routine, from daily habits to what never to do.

The golden rules

• Last on, first off. Jewellery goes on after perfume, lotion and hairspray, and comes off before washing, swimming, gym, garden and bed.
• Keep old settings away from water. Georgian and early Victorian pieces often have closed-back, foiled settings; moisture reaches the foil and dulls it permanently. Opals, pearls and turquoise also dislike soaking.
• Never use ultrasonic cleaners on antique pieces. The vibration loosens old settings and can shatter included stones. Steam cleaners: also no.
• Store pieces separately — diamonds scratch everything, including each other. Individual pouches or a compartmented box solve it entirely.

Routine cleaning, stone by stone

Diamonds, sapphires, rubies (open-backed settings): a short soak in warm water with a drop of washing-up liquid, the gentlest work with a baby-soft brush around the setting, rinse, and dry with a lint-free cloth. Emeralds: wipe with a barely damp cloth only — no soaking, no brushes; most emeralds are traditionally oiled and detergents strip them. Opals, pearls, turquoise, coral: soft dry or barely damp cloth, nothing else; never detergent. Foiled or closed-back stones: dry soft cloth only, ever. Gold: a jeweller's polishing cloth restores glow — but polish lightly and rarely; patina is part of the piece's value and charm. Silver: silver cloth, avoiding any gilt details.

Wearing antique jewellery daily

Rings take the hardest life. Twice a year, hold each ring to your ear and tap it gently — a rattle means a stone is loosening and wants a jeweller's attention before it wants a search of the carpet. Check claws with a fingernail for movement, and watch engagement-ring shanks for thinning. Chains: check clasps and jump rings occasionally, and don't sleep in pendants. Brooches: test the pin's spring and always use the safety catch.

When to see a professional

Loose stones, bent claws, thinning shanks, broken enamel or a repair involving heat all belong with a jeweller experienced in antique work — ask directly, because modern workshop habits (ultrasonics, aggressive re-polishing) can do real harm. A competent check-up every couple of years costs little and prevents nearly everything.

Insurance and records

Keep your purchase description and photographs somewhere safe, and consider adding valuable pieces to your home insurance or a specialist policy. If you'd like an updated valuation for insurance at any point, ask us and we'll point you in the right direction.

The reward

Cared for like this, there is no reason your piece won't outlive us all — which is rather the point of antique jewellery. When you're ready to add to the collection it belongs to, we'll be here.